Hanoi

Since the days of the Vietnam War, Hanoi has undergone a remarkable transformation. Once a city under siege, it now eagerly embraces modernity. Scooters dominate the streets, with elderly fishermen balancing buckets of their catch between their legs, while younger riders dart unpredictably around them. Alongside traditional street-food stalls and ancient pagodas, art galleries, chic cafés, and innovative Vietnamese restaurants have emerged, blending the old with the new.

Dating back to 1050, Hanoi has been a significant city for the Chinese, French, and Vietnamese, resulting in a rich tapestry of architectural styles. The Old Quarter, still partially enclosed by its original city walls, is a maze of narrow streets dotted with well-preserved Buddhist temples and shrines. Meanwhile, the French Quarter boasts wide boulevards lined with elegant villas, mansions, and the grand Hanoi Opera House.

Despite its bustling energy, Hanoi offers pockets of tranquility. As Vietnam specialist Stella notes, “I always find moments of peace, sipping coffee in a Parisian-inspired café — a drink the locals are truly passionate about.”

• Things to See and Do in Hanoi

Hanoians prefer grazing on snacks throughout the day rather than sitting down for a large lunch. Join a street-food tour led by an experienced guide to uncover the city’s culinary gems. Start at Thanh Ha Market, where ingredients from the Mekong Delta are showcased. Sample banana flower stamens, often used in salads, or the sweet custard apple, which resembles a small artichoke.

In the Old Quarter’s Dong Xuan Market, try bun dau (tofu in hot noodle soup) or banh xeo (crispy shrimp pancakes). End your tour at Café Giang, a historic coffee house established in 1946, famous for its egg coffee — a wartime creation that replaced rationed milk with eggs.

• Experience Hanoi at Dawn

Rise early to witness the city come alive. Local markets buzz with activity as fresh produce is traded and whisked off to restaurants and cafés. Parks fill with locals practicing t’ai chi or circuit training.

At 6 a.m., watch the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Guard High Command march to Ba Dinh Square for a solemn flag-raising ceremony in front of the grand marble mausoleum. After the ritual, join the queue to enter the mausoleum, where Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body lies in a glass casket, drawing hundreds of visitors daily.

• Explore the Hotel Metropole’s Bomb Shelter

Built in 1901 in the French Quarter, the Hotel Metropole (now Sofitel Legend Metropole) has hosted celebrities and diplomats, including Charlie Chaplin on his honeymoon. During renovations, a 1960s bomb shelter was discovered, used during the Vietnam War to protect guests from air raids.

Today, you can tour the preserved shelter, descending a flight of stairs near the pool to explore its narrow, musty rooms. The hotel also once featured an anti-aircraft gun on its roof, making it a unique historical site in the city.

• Sip Fresh Beer in the Old Quarter

Look out for signs advertising bia hoi (fresh beer), a light, foamy draft beer brewed daily and delivered to bars and street stalls. Head to Bia Hoi Corner in the Old Quarter, where locals and visitors gather at open-walled bars perched on low plastic chairs.

Pair your beer with sticky barbecued chicken or fried rice. Each day’s brew is slightly different, so it’s worth returning to taste the next batch.

• Discover the Temple of Literature

Built in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, the Temple of Literature was dedicated to Confucius and housed Vietnam’s first university. Initially reserved for the elite, it began admitting students based on merit in 1442. Remarkably, the temple has survived wars and natural disasters, standing as a testament to Hanoi’s enduring history.

Enter through the two-tiered Van Mieu Gate, and you’ll feel transported to ancient China. The complex features five courtyards surrounded by manicured gardens, gilded pavilions, and ancient trees. Don’t miss the Well of Heavenly Clarity in the third courtyard, where scholars once reflected to purify their minds.

• Best Time to Visit Hanoi

The ideal time to visit Hanoi is from November to April, during the dry season, when skies are clear, temperatures are pleasant, and humidity is low. From May to October, the city experiences its wet season, though it avoids the heavy monsoon rains that often affect coastal areas.

Hanoi is a city of contrasts, where history and modernity coexist, offering visitors a rich and unforgettable experience.