Laos walking vacations: Interior provinces of Indochina

My initial impression of Laos was that it was pleasantly raw. Every time I go back, I'm amazed at how little has changed in this nation. Saffron-robed monks, small-scale farmers, and members of remote hill tribes all continue to live at a relaxed pace because of the lack of Western influence.

I recently traveled to the northern part of the nation, where rugged hills rise slowly from the Nam Ou River and drop into broad valleys, providing a haven for unseen communities. The area is best discovered on foot, and its varied topography makes it ideal for hikers. Here, you may go for a relaxing Laos walking holiday lasting just a few hours or spend a day scrambling up the side of a waterfall. Check out the Laos travel guide on My Way Travel for suggestions on how to best see this stunning nation.

Walking around Luang Prabang

Valley of Luang Prabang between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Due to its position as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town has avoided rapid expansion and preserved the serene atmosphere, befitting Laos' spiritual capital. Monks in saffron robes may still go door to door, begging for alms as dawn comes.

Alms giving, Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang's many attractions, such as the Mekong River boat tours and the city's 30 beautifully painted temples, make it a popular tourist destination. It serves as a starting point for hikers heading into the northern hill areas, and its international airport and nice hotels make it a convenient hub.

Where to stay in Luang Prabang

Hotels like the affordable French colonial home Le Sen and the five-star Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, complete with a pool and spa, are also available.

Because of its proximity to the night market, I decided to stay at Angsana Maison Souvannaphoum, the former palace of Prince Souvanna Phouma. There are four suites in the historic French colonial structure, including the prince's former bedroom and additional rooms in a newer wing. The staff was quite kind, and there was even a pool (although most pools in Laos aren't heated, so be prepared for some chilliness).

Luang Prabang's Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel, by Angsana

Walks around Nong Khiaw

Located approximately two and a half hours north of Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw is a sleepy backwater town. A narrow crescent of land protrudes into the Nam Ou River from the northern Laotian highlands on three sides, and here is where the city sits.

Half-day walk to Phatok Cave

The spacious roads between Nong Khiaw and Phatok Cave are perfect for easygoing strolls on level ground. With several rest breaks, my guide and I spent around three hours doing the whole circuit.

We left Nong Khiaw on foot, and the mountains on each side of us rose higher as we passed rice terraces and tidy farmsteads. I saw no cars all day, even though we were strolling down a road.

Local peasants utilized Phatok Cave as a bomb shelter during the Second Indochina War in the 1960s and 1970s. The cave's entrance is perched precariously on the edge of a cliff. The bamboo ladder that formerly led up to it has been replaced with a stairway cut into the rock face. There is only a little to see on the interior, but my tour guide gave me some insight into what it was like to take refuge there.

We went by a traditional Khmu settlement on the way back. The Khmu people are native to northern Laos. They are skilled hunters and gatherers who cultivate rice fields and bamboo for traditional weaving. The adults were busy in the fields while the youngsters played in the courtyards under the watchful eye of the villages' elders. As we left, the path entered a woodland, where a dazzling assortment of butterflies feasting on greenery immediately surrounded us.

Nong Khiaw riverside

A full-day walk, with kayaking

From Nong Khiaw, you may walk for three hours and then take a boat back down the Nam Ou River. In the footsteps of local hunters, you go through woods and farmland up into the mountains.

Ban Huai Khong is one of the villages along the way where you may have a picnic. After fording a few creeks, you'll reach the river's edge and return to Nong Khiaw by kayak or private longtail boat.

The 100 Waterfalls trek

I recommend the ascent of the 100 Waterfalls as a more taxing excursion. The journey to the base of the waterfalls begins with a tranquil boat ride down the Nam Ou River, then a stroll via rice farms and little streams. The falls are a jungle-enclosed cascade of pools, stones, and gullies.

You'll scramble up the waterfall for around 2 kilometers (1.2 miles). There are bamboo ladders or ropes set up at more precarious junctures. It is hot, but there are pools where you can cool down. Your guide will bring a packed lunch to enjoy at the top of the falls before you begin the descent (which is considerably less strenuous).

Nam Ou River

Where to stay in Nong Khiaw

At Mandala Ou, you can take in stunning views of the river below and the jungle-clad karst hills that rise above from the comfort of an infinity pool. There are ten individual bungalows, all constructed of wood and all with thatched roofs and outside patio areas. You may rent bicycles from the hotel and ride them to the hamlet, then unwind in the hotel's Laotian herbal sauna after a day of sightseeing.

Village walks from Muang La

It's an adventure from Nong Khiaw to Muang La, located farther north. To begin, my guide and I climbed onto a traditional wooden longboat. We ascended the Nam Ou River for five hours, passing through more rugged terrain. We spent the day alone on the water, encountering just a handful of other longtail boats. We pulled up to where the riverside meets the road, got out, and drove the remaining 1.5 hours to Muang La.

Muang La is considered rather tiny, even in a nation where most people live in villages. A cluster of low-rise wooden dwellings around a Buddhist shrine in this Mekong River tributary settlement. Reserving a few days will allow you to explore nearby communities on foot and take in the unique landscape that so few tourists ever see.

Akha Lady, Muang La

Khmu Village and Cave Trek

Due to the scarcity of highways, inhabitants rely on a web of footpaths and trails for getting about. This makes it easy to customize the degree of effort or focus walks on certain interests, whether a stroll through the paddy fields or a strenuous hike into the neighboring mountains.

To see some of the most remote rural settlements in the area, I opted for a tough six-hour round trip. A native Kamu guide knowledgeable about the surrounding villages traveled with my English-speaking guide. We headed along a forest path alternating between wooded areas and sunlit, open rice paddies.

Young youngsters greeted us as we entered the first settlement. Homes are often elevated on stilts, with the occasional dog or cat resting underneath. While cooking rice or veggies, the women chatted in their doorways. We strolled around the hamlet and spoke with several locals before breaking for our fried rice picnic.

We next proceeded to a set of caves revered by the Buddhists in the area. Just as I was starting to feel tired, a young mother and kid walked by us, their backs laden with braided baskets of firewood that were almost as tall as they were.

Where to stay in Muang La

Muang La Resort surprised me since it was in a remote rural area. Ten bungalows on stilts are scattered around a small garden, some of which have views of the Nam Pak River.

Muang La Resort

Following a day of hiking, I relaxed in the hotel's rooftop hot tub, taking in the panoramic vistas of the river and its surrounding scenery.

The five-course dinners on the terrace overlooking the river are something to look forward to. The flan of steamed fish with spring onion and lemon balm is delicious. The dishes are infused with current Laotian flavors and are garnished with edible flowers. The wine cellar is also rather complete.

Extending your trip

From Muang La, the trip back to Luang Prabang is a beautiful full day's drive. Fly south to the French colonial town of Pakse, and from there, you may visit the 4,000 Islands. Direct flights from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai and Bangkok make a trip to Laos and Thailand easy.

What to consider when walking in Laos

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• During the dry season, visit between November and March for the greatest walking conditions. The average daily temperature is a pleasant 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit), but you should bring warmer clothes for the nights.
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• All the hikes and treks we offer are privately escorted, so your guide may go at your speed and modify the itinerary according to your preferences and physical ability.
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• I recommend bringing sturdy walking boots with ankle support since some of the more challenging treks and climbs include climbing over scree or along muddy areas of the trail.
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