Mountains & Monasteries

Lhasa

On arrival into Lhasa (be it by plane or train), you will be met by your guide and transferred to your hotel in Lhasa. Check in to your hotel and the remainder of your day is at leisure. Lhasa, Tibet’s spiritual and political capital, is a city of contrasts. The western side, with its’ concrete shopping malls and glass-fronted high-rise buildings, shows a definite stamp of Chinese rule. However, the east of the city still retains an old-world Tibetan charm: its’ winding alleyways are lined with rickety whitewashed houses and lamp-lit temples full of prostrating pilgrims. Rise early and join the locals on their daily kora (pilgrim circuit) around Jokhang Temple and wander the surrounding labyrinth of backstreets for a true sense of life in Lhasa.

Lhasa, Drepung & Sera Monasteries, Ganden Palace, Norbulingka

After breakfast you will be met by your guide who will transfer you to the outskirts of Lhasa, to visit two of Tibet’s most important Gelugpa monasteries: Drepung and Sera. Back in the day, these Buddhist institutions housed and educated a mind-boggling number of monks, with figures suggesting Sera was home to 5,000 monks whilst Drepung had a population of nearly 10,000, making it Tibet’s largest monastery! Drepung is so large that the kora takes a good 90-minutes. Built in the 1400’s both monasteries continue to operate as a ‘university monastery’, housing different colleges for the study of Buddhism, although resident numbers are now in the hundreds rather than thousands. If you visit in the afternoon, you’re likely to witness monks animatedly debating Buddhist scripture and philosophy in the courtyard. It’s not all about monasteries today! Whilst at Drepung you will visit Ganden Palace, which is where the Dalai Lama lived before Potala Palace was built. You will also make a stop at Norbulingka, the former summer palace of the Dalai Lama, which boasts the largest and most beautiful gardens in the country. It is also one of Lhasa’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. On returning to Lhasa the remainder of your day is at leisure.

Lhasa, Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple

Your touring today focuses on two of Lhasa’s three UNESCO World heritage sites, and the city’s best-known landmarks: Potala Palace and the Jokhang Temple. You can’t fail to be impressed by Potala Palace. Perched atop the 130m high ‘Red Mountain’, this 13-storey, 1000+ room complex towers imposingly over Lhasa. Constructed during the reign of the 5th Dalai Lama in the 17th century, it took 7000 workers more than 50 years to complete and was the winter residence of subsequent Dalai Lamas until 1959. Potala is divided into two parts: the White Palace, housing the Dalai Lama’s private living quarters; and the Red Palace which was used for religious functions and features the burial chambers of former Dalai Lamas. Inside you’ll find priceless, jewel-bedecked treasures, ancient sutras and beautiful murals. Security is tight and photography inside is forbidden. Located a short walk from the Palace is the 1300-year old Jokhang Temple. This ancient temple is the holiest of holies for Tibetans: pilgrims from all over the country begin arriving at dawn, and a steady stream of worshippers continues throughout the day. In the centre of the temple is a revered golden statue of the young Buddha, in front of which every pilgrim will prostrate and pray. Join devotees as they make their daily kora in a clockwise direction around the periphery of the temple, passing through the atmospheric Barkhor neighbourhood. Stroll back to your hotel where the remainder of your day is at leisure.

Lhasa, Yamdrok Tso Lake, Gyantse

Depart Lhasa after breakfast, heading in a south-west direction to Gyantse, one of Tibet’s best-preserved towns. It’s a long, but scenic drive that journeys over several dramatic mountain passes including Khamba La (4,852m) and the even higher Kora La (5,010m). You’ll also pass by the shores of Yamdrok Tso Lake: a vast expanse of freshwater surrounded by mountains. Yamdrok Tso is regarded as holy by Tibetans: they believe that circumambulating the lake in seven days will wash away their sins and earn them merit. On arrival in Gyantse, check in to your hotel and the rest of your day is at leisure. Once an important town for traders journeying across the Himalayas between India and Tibet, Gyantse has largely escaped the excesses of Chinese development and retains an authentic, Tibetan charm and laid-back vibe. If you’re feeling energetic, trek up to Gyantse Dzong from where you will be rewarded with incredible views over the old town, the surrounding plateau and mountains from its hilltop perch.

Gyantse, Pelkor Chode Monastery, Sakya Monastery, Sakya

Spend the morning exploring Gyantse’s 15th century monastery – Pelkor Chode. Unusually, three different schools of Tibetan Buddhism (Gelugpa, Sagyapa & Kadampa), coexist peacefully under one roof here, while the architecture is a fascinating mix of Tibetan, Han Chinese and Nepali craftsmanship. The monastery’s most notable feature is the Gyantse Kumbum (pronounced goom-boom): a 32 metre-high chorten that houses numerous tiny chapels decorated in beautiful murals and intricate sculptures. After visiting the monastery, depart Gyantse, heading west towards the Nepalese border. Your destination is the small, remote town of Sakya, which is a popular overnight stop for visitors en-route to Everest Base Camp. Just before you reach the town a stop will be made to visit the Sakya Monastery - the principal monastery of the Sakyapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. This immense monastery is quite unlike other monasteries you will see during your Tibet travels – its’ imposing red and grey walls and parapets look more akin to a fortress. The Sakya monastery is well known for its extensive collection of sacred Buddhist scriptures and ancient Thangkha (sacred Buddhist paintings). Continue on to your hotel in Sakya.

Sakya, Qomolangma NP, Rongbuk Gompa, Mt Everest views

After breakfast depart Sakya, following the Friendship Highway for a few kilometres before turning onto a road that winds through Qomolangma National Park, the world’s highest national park. Spanning 78,000 square kilometres it boasts ten mountains over 7,000 metres high and an additional five that peak above 8,000 metres, including the legendary Mount Everest, known as Mount Qomolangma in Tibetan. Tourist vehicles are restricted in the area and you will be required to transfer onto a bus for the final 20 minutes of your journey. Your destination is the tiny Rongbuk Gompa, which is regarded as the highest monastery in the world (at 5,000m) and unusual in that it is home to both monks and nuns. Cloud-cover permitting, from here you should catch your first unobstructed view of the snow-covered north face of Mount Everest - the tallest mountain in the world at 8,848m. Until recently it was possible to trek for a few kilometres further up the valley towards Everest Base Camp, which sits at 5,200 metres, however the government has currently restricted access to the area for environmental reasons. Stroll around the monastery complex: lines of prayer wheels and colourful prayer flags surround the large stupa and numerous meditation caves are hidden in the mountainside. Just above the monastery there’s a particularly magical, unobstructed view point. Next door to the monastery is Rongbuk Guesthouse and it is here that you will spend the night. The sun sets quite early, and you’re likely to spend the evening in the small restaurant, huddled around its warm stove. The guesthouse is incredibly basic in all departments (this is Everest Base Camp after all!) however the views at sunrise and sunset certainly make what will undoubtedly be a chilly night, worthwhile.

Qomolangma NP, Kyrong

Having savoured a once-in-a-lifetime sunrise, depart by road back through the national park and onto the small town of Kyrong, which sits 25 kilometres from the border with Nepal. It’s a long drive, but the spectacular scenery will help your journey pass quickly. Snow-capped mountains provide the scenic backdrop to your journey; the lunar-like, barren landscape becomes more forested and greener as you get closer to the border. Arrive into Kyrong late afternoon, and having checked into your hotel, the remainder of your day is at leisure. Kyrong itself is a small unremarkable town, however it’s conveniently located for an overnight stay when crossing into Nepal.

Kyrong, Nepal: Trishuli

Early morning departure by road to the newly opened China-Nepal border. After taking care of border formalities, bid farewell to your Tibetan guide and walk across the bridge into Nepal, where your Nepali guide will be waiting for you. Having completed arrival formalities, meet your driver for the journey to Trishuli. Despite being a distance of only 70 kilometres, the drive is long, slow and relatively arduous due to the poor condition of the road which is cut into a narrow mountain pass. A stop will be made en-route for lunch and to stretch your legs before arriving into Trishuli in the afternoon. Having checked into your hotel, the remainder of your day is at leisure.

Trishuli, Bandipur

Depart Trishuli after breakfast, heading west to Bandipur. Road conditions are much more favourable than yesterday’s journey! Occupying a 1,030m high ridge above the main highway linking Kathmandu to Pokhara, Bandipur is a beautifully preserved Newari town, virtually untouched by modernisation. Apart from wonderful 18th century architecture, Bandipur boasts breath-taking views across the valley towards the Himalayas and offers some excellent trekking opportunities in the surrounding hills. On arrival, check in to your guesthouse and the remainder of your day is at leisure. Many of the traditional buildings around the bazaar have been transformed into cafes and restaurants, and you can easily while away an hour people-watching with a drink.

Bandipur

Your day is at leisure to explore Bandipur independently, at your own pace. Stroll the charming main street (that’s pleasantly vehicle free!), stopping to soak up the relaxed vibe over coffee and wonder at the traditional Newari architecture. Just north of Bandipur Bazaar you’ll find the former parade ground of Tundikhel and the Bindabasini Temple with its’ beautifully carved walls; to the south is the ancient Mahalaxmi Temple. Slightly further afield, the steep climb to the Khadga Devi Temple is well worth the effort, and the hilltop Thani Mai Temple offers the best early morning views.

Bandipur, Pokhara, Phewa Lake

After a leisurely breakfast, descend back to the main Prithvi Highway and drive westwards to Pokhara. After crossing the Madi River the road climbs steeply into the mountains (keep your camera close at hand for views of deep rocky gorges on a clear day), and then winds down into the vast Seti Valley. After around 2.5 hours, arrive into Pokhara. Pokhara lies on a once vibrant trade route extending between India and Tibet, and even to this day, mule trains can be seen camped on the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from remote regions of the Himalayas. Arguably the most photogenic city in the country, laid-back Pokhara enjoys a serene lakeside setting with views towards the stunning Annapurna mountain range. It’s widely agreed to be the adventure sports capital of Nepal, offering excellent paragliding and white-water rafting opportunities as well as being the start point for treks in and around the Annapurnas. There is time to freshen up before heading out for a leisurely boat ride. Nepal’s second largest lake, Phewa is a serene expanse of freshwater that produces spectacular reflections of the surrounding mountains. Sit back and relax; admire the views and soak up the tranquillity as your boatman gently sculls across the mirror-flat waters. After one hour return to shore and transfer back to your hotel.

Pokhara, Annapurna trek: Lumle to Birethanti

After breakfast you will be met at your hotel by a Ker & Downey guide and porter who will accompany you over the next four days. Adventure company, Ker & Downey own four comfortable lodges in the Annapurna Massif, perfectly positioned within a few hours walk of each other. Their experienced local team will be looking after you over the coming days as you trek between their lodges. There are numerous trekking routes that can be taken and your programme can be adapted to your ability and preferences. For the purposes of this itinerary we have showcased a Selective Asia favourite. Transfer by road to Lumle, the start point of your trek, which is around one hour from Pokhara and sits at an altitude of 1610 metres. From Lumle begin by following a ridgeline in the lower foothills of the Annapurnas, with surrounding views of the Pokhara Valley. The route then drops to the Modi River Valley with its dramatic views of the sacred ‘Fishtail’ mountain, where Ker & Downey’s Sanctuary Lodge is located. Arrive in time for lunch. In the afternoon there is the opportunity to walk into the local village of Birethanti or explore the surrounding river valley. Evening drinks and a three-course dinner are served in the lounge area, with its central fire pit.

Annapurna trek: Birethanti to Majgaun

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast before donning your walking boots and heading out once more into the Annapurna foothills with your guide and porter. Your destination is Ker & Downey’s Gurung Lodge, which is located in the small Gurkha village of Majgaun, surrounded by mountains, notably the impressive peaks of Annapurna South and Annapurna One. Following a two-hour scenic trek, arrive at the lodge with time to freshen up before lunch. In the afternoon, take a walk into the nearby village for an interesting insight into traditional life in a remote mountain village. Return to Gurung Lodge in time for happy hour drinks and dinner.

Annapurna trek: Majgaun to Dhampus, via Australia Camp

It’s worth waking early to witness the entire face of Annapurna South lit up as the sun rises. We recommend a hearty breakfast in preparation for your trek to Ker & Downey’s Basanta Lodge, located at an altitude of 1525 metres in the village of Dhampus. Your trekking route takes you through sub-tropical forests where rhododendrons and magnolias grow. Over the course of the morning, stops will be made at the village of Pothana which is home to Tibetan traders, and the well-known Australia Camp (neither Australian nor a camp) which boasts arguably the most breath-taking views in the region from its’ altitude of 2100 metres. After trekking for around 4.5 hours, arrive at Basanta Lodge. After lunch, there is the opportunity to explore the traditional village of Dhampus on foot. Early evening, join your fellow guests beside the large fire pit for happy hour drinks followed by a hearty dinner.

Annapurna trek: Dhampus to Ghattekhola, Pokhara, Kathmandu

From Basanta Lodge it’s a 1.5 hour walk to Ghattekhola where your driver will be waiting to transfer you to Pokhara Airport in time for your short flight to Kathmandu. Upon arrival in Kathmandu you will be met by your guide and transferred to your hotel. The airport is close to the city centre, but traffic can make the journey a little slow, especially in peak hours. The capital of Nepal, Kathmandu is an assault on the senses: the smell of incense mingles with pungent spices and scooter exhaust; merchants shout to make themselves heard above the sound of motorbike horns; cars and cows share the streets which are lined with ancient temples alongside internet cafes. Be prepared for a sensory overload!

Kathmandu, Pashupatinath Temple, Boudhanath Stupa, Swayambhunath

Spend the day exploring Kathmandu’s sacred sites. First stop of the day is Pashupatinath Temple, one of Nepal’s UNESCO World Heritage sites. Situated on the banks of the holy Bagmati River, it is the oldest and most sacred Hindu temple in Nepal, which is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Each year hundreds of Hindu pilgrims gather here, especially the sick and elderly who wish their bodies to be cremated at the funeral pyres that line the banks of this sacred river, believing that this will ensure their soul goes straight to heaven. Only Hindus are permitted to enter the main temple courtyard, but from a vantage point across the river it’s possible to view part of the courtyard and any activities taking place. Your next stop is the Boudhanath Stupa, another UNESCO World Heritage site. The Boudhanath Stupa is the largest stupa in Nepal and the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet. It’s a popular place of pilgrimage and buzzes with activity from dawn until dusk. Four pairs of eyes stare out from the base of the gilded spire which sits atop the great white dome; coloured prayer flags flutter in the wind. Join the endless streams of monks, pilgrims and locals as they stroll (in a clockwise direction) around the base of the stupa to gain merit. On your way back to the city, make a stop at one of Kathmandu’s most iconic sites: Swayambhunath, a.k.a the Monkey Temple. Perched on a hilltop on the outskirts of town, the stupa’s all-seeing eyes overlook the Kathmandu Valley. This deeply symbolic UNESCO World Heritage site is a fascinating mix of Buddhist iconography and Hindu deities. Sadly, some of the shrines were damaged by the 2015 earthquake, but the vast cone of the main stupa remains.

Kathmandu, Bhaktapur

Head out of Kathmandu to Bhaktapur, one of the three former royal cities of the Kathmandu Valley (the other two being Kathmandu & Patan) and home to some of the finest religious architecture in Nepal. Sadly, many of the ancient buildings were destroyed during the 2015 earthquake however the city still boasts more temples than neighbouring Kathmandu and there is plenty to see. Wander through the maze of narrow streets and you will see evidence of Bhaktapur’s rich cultural heritage: courtyards are filled with fired clay pots, women sit weaving cloth and craftsmen carefully chisel timber into furniture and statues. Take lunch at Khowpa Chhen: a Newari-style guest house that oozes charm and heritage. The rooftop restaurant serves Nepali cuisine accompanied by impressive views over Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square and the surrounding hills. After lunch, return to Kathmandu where the remainder of your day is at leisure.

Depart Kathmandu

After a leisurely breakfast, check out and transfer to Kathmandu Airport in time for your onward flight.